Breguet, a brand synonymous with horological excellence and avant-garde design, continues to soar with the release of the new Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold - a stunning addition to its celebrated Type XX Collection, launched in June 2023.
The Type XX, regarded as one of the most emblematic pilot’s chronographs around, made an iconic comeback last year with historic design cues dating back to the early 1950s when it was initially delivered to French Air Force pilots. The collection welcomed two new watches, one with military inspiration, the Type 20, and one with civilian design elements, the Type XX, both housed in stainless steel cases with classic matte black dials. This year, the classic design returns in a civilian version that mixes gold and ceramic, a first for the collection.
Yesterday’s Inspiration for Today’s Design
Like the versions released in June 2023, this new timepiece draws inspiration from the emblematic watches dating back to the collection’s origins. Gold was indeed chosen for very rare timepieces in 1955, including the notable Breguet No. 1780, now housed in the Breguet Museum. The contrasting bezel first appeared on second-generation Type XX models from the 1970s, which were adorned with different graduations such as tachymeter scales, or with GMT indications.
These historical references blend with the emblematic codes of the civilian Type XX. The 15-minute counter is located at 3 o'clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock and the running seconds at 9 o'clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the size of the counters differs to make the dial more dynamic and legible. The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are covered in a white luminescent coating. The 42 mm-diameter rose gold case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight-line crown can be set in three different positions: 1) neutral, winding 2) date setting, 3) time setting. The 2 o'clock pusher is used to start and stop the chronograph function, while the 4 o'clock pusher serves to reset the chronograph and restart it immediately, the famous "flyback" function.
What’s New
This new model is presented in a havana-coloured leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing profile. It is delivered with both alligator leather and NATO straps, in midnight blue. The NATO strap is embellished with white piping. The interchangeable strap system enables the leather strap to be removed easily, independently and tool-free.
Ceramic Ring
The graduated, bidirectional rotating bezel in gold features a blue ceramic ring that contrasts elegantly with the gold of the case and numerals, while harmoniously blending with the dial colour.
The Dial
Its sunburst blue hue is reminiscent of the variations in the sky after sunset. To add depth, the three counters feature a snailed motif. Finally, the numerals are in gold and filled with luminescent material.
Calibre 728
The Calibre 728, released in 2023 after four years of development, is a high-precision movement with a "flyback" function. Its robust design features innovative start and reset systems and a vertical clutch mechanism chosen for its precision right from the start. To ensure the robustness of the movement and guarantee its precision in the event of shocks, the Maison opted for a cross-through bridge to hold the balance wheel in place.
Designed to take up as much of the space available in the movement as possible, the barrel providing the energy is fitted with a spring whose high-energy-density material provides a longer 60-hour power reserve.
In addition to the sunburst motif, snailing, chamfering, circular graining and other visible decorations on the components, the brand has given the column wheel a black treatment combining contrast with tribological improvement. The sapphire crystal case back reveals the details of the movement and its blackened gold oscillating weight, shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.
The Type XX Epic, A Journey Through Time
As early as 1949, Breguet – which had long been closely involved in aeronautical circles – developed chronographs with the famous special function that was soon named "flyback". This considerably simplified the use of the chronograph, thanks to the reset function that instantly restarted the chronograph at the touch of a pusher, a time-saver much appreciated by pilots.
In 1952, Breguet was informed that a bid for tender was going to be organised by the French Air Force and submitted models to the Service Technique Aéronautique. In the spring of 1953, these models were approved under the name Type 20. This paved the way for official orders placed and in 1954, the long-hoped-for order arrived: a very large one involving 1,100 units for the French Air Force, followed in 1958 by a 500-unit order for the French Naval Aviation. At the same time, Breguet began selling many civil Type XXs, a trend that would continue for several decades. The first civilian Type XXs were sold in 1953. Since then, different generations have come and gone. Some were innovative, like the Type XXII, reference 3880, with a different 10 hertz frequency. Today, the legend continues with a fourth generation of Type XXs, drawing on Breguet’s watchmaking expertise as well as its assertive aesthetics, making this collection an icon of today and tomorrow.
Make a Private Appointment
365 Aviation recently had the pleasure of collaborating with Breguet, to celebrate the launch of their latest series of exclusive workshops at their luxurious boutique in Hong Kong. As we continue to work with Breguet, we are delighted to offer our esteemed clients the chance to view these remarkable timepieces up close at the Breguet Boutique Hong Kong.
For those interested in booking a private viewing or to learn more about this exclusive collection, please contact us at charter@365aviation.com
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